Gold has been a symbol of beauty, courage, and commitment for thousands of years. However, not all gold jewelry is created equal: karats, finishes, and standards vary by country. In this guide, you'll learn how to identify authentic gold, what karats mean, what alternatives such as vermeil and gold-filled exist, and how to ensure your jewelry is durable and ethical.
What do carats mean in gold?
The karat (k) indicates the purity of the gold in an alloy. Since pure gold (24k) is too soft for use in jewelry, it is mixed with other metals (silver, copper, palladium) to provide hardness and strength. The higher the karat, the purer the gold, but also the softer and more delicate it is.
10k, 14k, 18k, 22k and 24k gold
| Carats | Purity (%) | Parts per thousand (ppm) | Characteristics |
|---|---|---|---|
| 10k | 41.6% | 416 ppm | Very durable, inexpensive, and paler in color. It's not considered fine gold in Spain. |
| 14k | 58.5% | 585 ppm | A balance between durability and beauty. It's the standard at Bravora. |
| 18k | 75% | 750 ppm | Brighter and warmer, standard in Europe and high jewelry. |
| 22k | 91.6% | 916 ppm | Very close to pure gold, but softer and harder to work. |
| 24k | 99.9% | 999 ppm | Pure gold, an intense yellow, not recommended for rings for everyday use. |
Gold colors in jewelry: yellow, white, and rose
The color of gold depends on its alloy : pure gold (24k) is a deep yellow, but for jewelry, it is mixed with other metals (silver, copper, palladium, nickel, zinc) to increase resistance and change the hue. The three most commonly used colors are:
Yellow gold
Classic alloy of gold + silver + copper . It maintains the natural warm tone of gold and requires no coating. With use, it can scratch like any precious metal, but it does not change color : professional polishing is sufficient to restore the shine.
White gold (and why it should be rhodium-plated)
It is obtained by mixing yellow gold with bleaching metals (palladium, nickel, silver). However, the alloy has a slight yellowish/grayish hue . To give it the mirror-white look you see in fine jewelry, a rhodium (a platinum group metal) coating is applied to the finished piece.
- Rhodium: provides a “cool” white finish, high gloss and greater surface resistance to light scratches.
- Maintenance: Rhodium plating wears off with use (friction, chemicals, sea/pool exposure). It's normal to re-plate the jewelry every 12–24 months (depending on your habits) to maintain the perfect white tone.
- Non-rhodium: Non-rhodium white gold looks more “champagne” or warm gray; some people prefer it for its natural patina .
Rose gold
An alloy of gold and copper (and a small proportion of silver). The copper provides the pink hue . It is durable and requires no coating; over time, it can develop a very soft patina, which can be restored with polishing.
Sterling Silver in Spain and official hallmarks
In Spain, the minimum gold content for a piece of jewelry to be considered fine gold is 18k gold (750 thousandths). Each piece of jewelry must bear an official hallmark engraved on it, guaranteeing its purity and authenticity. For example: "750" for 18k, "585" for 14k, or "999" for 24k.
Vermeil, Gold Filled and Gold Plated
Not all gold jewelry is made of solid gold. There are more affordable alternatives that cover other metals with layers of gold. Knowing these is key to avoiding confusion and misleading expectations.
Gold Vermeil
Vermeil is sterling silver coated with a layer of gold that's at least 10k and at least 2.5 microns thick. It's a mid-grade option: more durable than plain plating, but less expensive than solid gold. Its great advantage is that, because it's silver-based, it doesn't cause allergies.
Gold Filled Gold
Gold-filled is made by applying pressure and heat to bond a thick layer of gold (minimum 5%) onto a base metal such as brass. It's up to 50 times thicker than regular plating and lasts for many years without fading. Although it's not considered solid gold, it's a premium alternative to vermeil.
Gold Plated
Gold plating is the most common method of plating fashion jewelry. It involves coating a brass, steel, or copper base with gold, but with a minimal thickness (between 0.1 and 0.5 microns). This means that with daily use and contact with water or sweat, the gold color disappears within a few months.
Microns and plating durability
| Microns | Approximate durability |
|---|---|
| 0.1 – 0.5 µm | 3 to 6 months of frequent use |
| 1 – 2 µm | 6 months to 1 year |
| 2.5 µm (vermeil) | 1 to 3 years, depending on use and care |
| 5 µm or more (gold filled) | More than 5 years, high resistance |
Practical tips for caring for your gold jewelry
- Avoid showering or swimming with gold-plated pieces.
- Store them in a sealed case to avoid friction and moisture.
- Clean them with a soft cloth and never with abrasive chemicals.
- In solid 14k or 18k gold pieces, the color never disappears because it is not a coating, but part of the material.
Recycled gold and sustainability
At BRAVORA, we use certified recycled gold because we believe in conscious luxury. All our gold comes from refining processes of antique jewelry or industrial surplus, guaranteeing the same quality as freshly mined gold, but with a much lower environmental impact.
RJC Certification
We work with suppliers accredited by the Responsible Jewellery Council (RJC) , the most recognized international certification in the jewelry industry. This seal guarantees ethical practices, traceability, and sustainability throughout the supply chain.
Is recycled gold worse?
No. Gold is a metal that doesn't lose its properties: recycled or freshly mined, it's chemically identical. A recycled 18k gold ring has exactly the same durability, purity, and shine as a "new" gold ring. The difference lies in the origin: recycling avoids the impact of mining.
Punches in Spain: your legal guarantee
In Spain, every piece marketed as gold must bear an official hallmark certifying its fineness. This hallmark is regulated by official hallmarking laboratories and indicates the number of thousandths (ppm) of the gold.
| Caratage | Thousandths (ppm) | Awl |
|---|---|---|
| 24k | 999 | Pure gold |
| 22k | 916 | 916 |
| 18k | 750 | 750 |
| 14k | 585 | 585 |
| 10k | 417 | 417 |
In Spain, the legal minimum for gold certification is 9k (375 thousandths) . Below this level, the piece cannot be sold as gold, even if it is plated or coated.
Why choose BRAVORA
With us, you can rest assured that your jewelry is not only authentic and durable , but also meets the highest standards of quality and sustainability. Each ring includes a BRAVORA Certificate of Authenticity that certifies the carat weight, origin of the recycled gold, and a manufacturing guarantee.
Frequently Asked Questions About Gold
What does gold karatage mean?
Karat indicates the purity of the gold. 24k is pure gold (too soft for jewelry). 18k contains 75% pure gold, and 14k contains 58.5% , alloyed with other metals for strength.
What is the gold standard?
The "grade" expresses purity in thousandths (per thousand). For example, 18k gold = 750 grade (75% gold), 14k gold = 585 grade .
What are the most common colors of gold in jewelry?
Yellow, white, and pink . The color depends on the alloy : silver/copper (yellow), palladium/nickel/silver (white), copper (pink).
Does gold change color over time?
Yellow and rose gold retain their hue; they can lose their shine due to micro-scratches, which can be restored with polishing. White gold is often rhodium- plated: this coating wears off and should be re-plated periodically to maintain a cool, mirror-like white.
How do you know if a piece is really gold?
Look for the hallmarks (e.g., 750 for 18k, 585 for 14k) and the hallmark of the hallmarking laboratory in Spain. If you have any questions, consult a professional for testing (acid, XRF).
Can the size of gold jewelry be adjusted?
Yes. Depending on the design, it can be cut and soldered or used as a non-cut setting. Full pavé settings or continuous engravings may require specific solutions.
What is the difference between Italian gold and other golds?
" Italian gold " refers above all to the quality of workmanship and design in Italian workshops. The origin of the metal is global; what varies is the tradition and finish.
Is gold lost when it is melted or modified?
There may be minor losses due to filing or polishing. Therefore, it's best to have this done by professional workshops that can monitor the process and reclaim the material.
How to care for gold jewelry?
Avoid harsh chemicals, direct perfumes, and impacts. Clean with warm water and mild soap and a soft cloth. For white gold , plan to rhodium-plating when you notice a yellowish tinge.
What carat weight is best for an engagement ring?
It depends on the use:
18k: High purity and luxurious tone, ideal for fine jewelry.
14k: harder and more durable for daily use , excellent durability/aesthetics ratio.
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