Gold has been a symbol of beauty, value and commitment for thousands of years. Yet not all the gold we find in jewellery is the same: there are different karats, finishes and standards depending on the country. In this guide you will learn how to identify genuine gold, what karats mean, which alternatives such as vermeil or gold filled exist, and how to make sure your jewellery is durable and ethical.
What do karats mean in gold?
The karat (k) indicates the purity of gold in an alloy. Because pure gold (24k) is too soft to be used in jewellery, it is mixed with other metals (silver, copper, palladium) to add hardness and strength. The higher the number of karats, the purer the gold, but also the softer and more delicate it is.
10k, 14k, 18k, 22k and 24k gold
| Karats | Purity (%) | Parts per thousand (ppt) | Characteristics |
|---|---|---|---|
| 10k | 41.6% | 416 ppt | Very resistant, affordable, paler tone. In España it is not considered hallmarked gold. |
| 14k | 58.5% | 585 ppt | A balance between durability and beauty. It is the standard at Bravora. |
| 18k | 75% | 750 ppt | Brighter and warmer; the standard in Europe and in fine jewellery. |
| 22k | 91.6% | 916 ppt | Very close to pure gold, but softer and harder to work. |
| 24k | 99.9% | 999 ppt | Pure gold, an intense yellow; not recommended for rings worn every day. |
Gold colours in jewellery: yellow, white and rose
The colour of gold depends on its alloy: pure gold (24k) is an intense yellow, but for jewellery it is mixed with other metals (silver, copper, palladium, nickel, zinc) to gain strength and change its tone. The three most widely used colours are:
Yellow gold
The classic alloy of gold + silver + copper. It keeps gold's natural warm tone and needs no plating. With wear it can scratch like any precious metal, but it does not change colour: a professional polish is all it takes to restore its shine.
White gold (and why it should be rhodium-plated)
It is made by mixing yellow gold with whitening metals (palladium, nickel, silver). Even so, the alloy has a slight yellowish/greyish tint. To give it the mirror-white look you see in fine jewellery, a rhodium plating (a platinum-group metal) is applied to the finished piece.
- Rhodium: provides the “cool” white, a high shine and greater surface resistance to light scratches.
- Maintenance: rhodium plating wears off with use (friction, chemicals, sea/pool water). It is normal to re-plate the piece with rhodium every 12–24 months (depending on habits) to keep its perfect white tone.
- Without rhodium: white gold without rhodium looks more “champagne” or warm grey; some people prefer it for its natural patina.
Rose gold
An alloy of gold + copper (with a small proportion of silver). The copper gives it its pinkish tone. It is durable and needs no plating; over time it may develop a very soft patina, which can be removed by polishing.
Hallmarked gold in España and official hallmarks
In España, the minimum for a piece to be considered hallmarked gold is 18k gold (750 parts per thousand). Every piece must carry an engraved official hallmark, which guarantees its purity and authenticity. For example: “750” for 18k, “585” for 14k, or “999” for 24k.
Vermeil, Gold Filled and Gold Plating
Not all gold-coloured jewellery is made of solid gold. There are more affordable alternatives that coat other metals with layers of gold. Knowing them is key to avoiding confusion and mistaken expectations.
Gold Vermeil
Vermeil is sterling silver coated with a layer of gold of at least 10k and a minimum thickness of 2.5 microns. It is a mid-quality option: more durable than simple plating, but at a lower cost than solid gold. Its great advantage is that, having a silver base, it does not cause allergies.
Gold Filled
Gold filled is made by applying pressure and heat to bond a thick layer of gold (minimum 5%) onto a base metal such as brass. It is up to 50 times thicker than standard plating and lasts many years without losing its colour. Although it is not considered solid gold, it is a premium alternative to vermeil.
Gold Plating
Gold plating is the most common option in fashion jewellery. It consists of coating a brass, steel or copper base with gold, but with a minimal thickness (between 0.1 and 0.5 microns). This means that with daily wear and contact with water or sweat, the gold colour disappears within a few months.
Microns and plating durability
| Microns | Approximate durability |
|---|---|
| 0.1 – 0.5 µm | 3 to 6 months of frequent wear |
| 1 – 2 µm | 6 months to 1 year |
| 2.5 µm (vermeil) | 1 to 3 years, depending on wear and care |
| 5 µm or more (gold filled) | More than 5 years, highly resistant |
Practical tips for caring for your gold jewellery
- Avoid showering or swimming with gold-plated pieces.
- Store them in a closed case to avoid friction and humidity.
- Clean them with a soft cloth and never with abrasive chemicals.
- In solid 14k or 18k gold pieces, the colour never fades, because it is not a coating but part of the material itself.
Recycled gold and sustainability
At BRAVORA we use certified recycled gold because we believe in conscious luxury. All our gold comes from refining old jewellery or industrial surplus, guaranteeing the same quality as newly mined gold, but with a much lower environmental impact.
RJC certification
We work with suppliers accredited by the Responsible Jewellery Council (RJC), the most recognised international certification in the jewellery industry. This seal guarantees ethical, traceable and sustainable practices throughout the entire supply chain.
Is recycled gold worse?
No. Gold is a metal that does not lose its properties: recycled or newly mined, it is chemically identical. A ring in 18k recycled gold has exactly the same durability, purity and shine as one in “new” gold. The difference lies in its origin: recycling avoids the impact of mining.
Hallmarks in España: your legal guarantee
In España, every piece sold as gold must carry an official hallmark certifying its fineness. This mark is regulated by the official assay laboratories and states the gold's parts per thousand (ppt).
| Karatage | Parts per thousand (ppt) | Hallmark |
|---|---|---|
| 24k | 999 | Pure gold |
| 22k | 916 | 916 |
| 18k | 750 | 750 |
| 14k | 585 | 585 |
| 10k | 417 | 417 |
In España, the legal minimum for a piece to be called gold is 9k (375 parts per thousand). Below that figure, a piece cannot be sold as gold, even if it has gold plating or a coating.
Why choose BRAVORA
With us you can be sure that your piece is not only genuine and durable, but also meets the highest standards of quality and sustainability. Every ring comes with a BRAVORA certificate of authenticity confirming its karatage, the origin of the recycled gold and the manufacturing guarantee.
Frequently asked questions about gold
What does gold karatage mean?
Karatage indicates the purity of gold. 24k is pure gold (too soft for jewellery). 18k contains 75% pure gold and 14k contains 58.5%, alloyed with other metals for added strength.
What is gold fineness?
“Fineness” expresses purity in parts per thousand. For example, 18k gold = 750 fineness (75% gold), 14k gold = 585 fineness.
What are the most common gold colours in jewellery?
Yellow, white and rose. The colour depends on the alloys: silver/copper (yellow), palladium/nickel/silver (white), copper (rose).
Does gold change colour over time?
Yellow and rose gold keep their tone; they may lose some shine through micro-scratches, which is restored by polishing. White gold is usually plated with rhodium: that plating wears off, so it is worth re-plating it with rhodium from time to time to keep its cool, mirror-like white.
How can you tell whether a piece is really gold?
Busca the hallmarks (e.g. 750 for 18k, 585 for 14k) and the assay office mark in España. If in doubt, ask a professional to test it (acid, XRF).
Can a gold ring be resized?
Yes. Depending on the design, it can be cut and soldered, or resized without cutting. Full pavé settings or continuous engravings may require specific solutions.
What is the difference between Italian gold and other gold?
“Italian gold” refers mainly to the craftsmanship and design of Italian workshops. The metal itself is sourced globally; what differs is the tradition and the finish.
Is gold lost when it is melted down or altered?
There may be minimal losses from filing or polishing. That is why it is best to entrust the work to professional workshops that control the process and recover the material.
How should you care for gold jewellery?
Avoid harsh chemicals, applying perfume directly and knocks. Clean with warm water and mild soap and a soft cloth. For white gold, plan a rhodium re-plating when you notice a yellowish tone.
Which karat is best for an engagement ring?
It depends on how it will be worn:
18k: high purity and a luxurious tone, ideal for fine jewellery.
14k: harder and more resistant for everyday wear, with an excellent balance of durability and aesthetics.
More guides you may find interesting
- Natural diamond vs lab-grown diamond: key differences
- The definitive guide to lab-grown diamonds (2025)
- The definitive guide to moissanite
- How much should you invest in an engagement ring in 2025?
- Engagement ring trends 2025-2026
→ Design your ring in recycled 14k or 18k gold with BRAVORA
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